Ephesus in Turkey

Ephesus was one of the most important and biggest cities in Roman Anatolia and the capital of the province Asia. The exceptionally well-preserved ruins are close to the modern city of Seljuk and one of the main tourist attractions in Turkey. Ephesus was founded 1000 BC as an Attic-Ionien colony some kilometers from the place of today ruins. In the following centuries it was repeatedly conquered, plundered and rebuilt. The city was also moved several times away from the silting river that threatened the vital harbor, closer to the retreating see.

Ephesus was of significant importance in the Greek world due to the Artemis temple, one of the seven world wonders of the Ancient World. However, it was not before the Roman period that Ephesus – outstripping Pergamun – became the regional hegemon and the capital of the province Asia.

Hellenistic Period
After the liberation of Asia Minor from the Persians in 334 BC, Alexander the Great was warmly welcomed in Ephesus. He offered to fund the reconstruction of the destroyed Artemis temple under the condition that the temple was given an inscription with his name. The inhabitants answered diplomatically that it does not fit for one god to build a temple for another god.
After Alexanders death and the partitioning of his empire among his generals in 332 BC, Ephesus came to Lysimachus. During his reign the river Cayster silted the harbor and forced to relocate the city some kilometers to the place where its remains stand until today.
In the following, Ephesus came under the influence of first, the Seleucid dynasty (281 BC), then the Ptolemy (263 BC), again the Seleucid (197 BC) and finally, helped by the Romans, to Attalus II, king of Pergamun (190 BC). When his grandson died without a heir, he left his kingdom to the Roman Republic.

Roman Period
In 27 BC, Ephesus was designated as the capital of the Province Asia (the western part of Anatolia minor) by Emperor Augustus. The city flourished and developed to a very powerful trade center counting over 250’000 inhabitants in 100 AC. Many representative buildings, which can be seen today, date from this period. Ephesus had a sophisticated water supply and disposal system, public baths, theaters, fountains and a big amphitheater providing a fantastical acoustic for some 25000 spectators.
The plundering of the city by the Goths in 263 AC marks the end of the heydays of Ephesus.

Byzantine period
Ephesus, although never again tying up to the Roman glory, continued to be one of the most important cities in Asia Minor for many years. In 622 AC, it was badly damaged by a major earthquake and the renewed silting up of the harbor, cutting it off the vital sea trade, prompted many people to leave the area. After the plundering by the Arabs 700 AC and 716 AC the city was all but abandoned.

Visiting Ephesus
Most tourists are transported to the upper entrance, walking down the main avenue to the lower entrance / exit where their buses pick them up. Following this route, the first building on your right is the Odejon, a kind of small theatre used for the city council as well as for plays. Next to it is the town hall, where two Artemis statues were found.

After the adjacent herkules gate is the marble and porticoed kureteway leading down to the lower part. Along this marvelous street is the Hadrian temple, many fountains and the so-called terrace-houses. The latter offers a intriguing insight in the Roman private live and it is very unfortunate that most visitors are kept away by the additional substantial entrance fee.
Further down on the left is the impressive library, which was restored in 1970 by the Austrian Archeological Institute. 12000 papyrus rolls were stored in its niches. Turning to the right, a similar marble street leads to the huge Amphitheater with an absolutely tremendous acoustic. It is actually possible to stand high above the manege and clearly hear and understand people standing down in the ring and speaking with normal voices. This high place also offers a fabulous sight on the arcade way, leading to the former harbor.

Tips and Tricks
During the day, innumerable tourist groups flood the whole site. If possible, come in the afternoon, when they leave back to adas), when the light is better for taking pictures and temperatures are more bearable. If you dont want to hire a guide, you can also get an audio-guide (let an ID card) at the entrance. Mind, that the hire station close earlier that the park. So, if you enter – as recommended – in late afternoon you may find them already closed by the time you want to give back the headset. It is however possible to get the guides against a deposit at the upper entry and give them (and get your money) back at the lower entry.

Instead of paying a (human) guide on your own you could either join with other individual travelers or join one of the smaller groups. Ask the guide and he or her will probably let you in. They will of course appreciate a little financial compensation.
If you come by car, consider driving to the upper free parking lot instead of paying 5 YTL per day at the lower one.
The parking lots are controlled by the military at night, dont try to sleep there. A good option nearby is the parking before the Johannes church in Seluk.

How to get there
Most visitors are being transported by coaches from (Kusadasi) , but Ephesus is also accessible by airplane. The Adnan Menderes Airport close to Izmir is some 50 kilometers away and offers direct flights to the major European hubs such as Frankfurt, London, Berlin, Munich, Dsseldorf, Vienna, Stuttgart, Paris, etc. Backpackers most likely want to get a Dolmus in Seluk driving to the lower entrance. Many hotels offer free rides to Ephesus. Drivers take the road from Seljuk to Kusadasi and follow the sign right after / before Selcuk.

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